Jan Meutgeert

Rose #1

The fragrance of rose is one of the most important in perfumery. For that reason there are plenty examples and different approaches, but there are some aspects you will find in about any rose material.

The first aspect: as usual most of the compound is made of the so called "rose alcohols": phenyl ethyl alcohol, citronellol, geraniol and sometimes also nerol and phenyl propyl alcohol.

A good rose compound has a tiny bit of damascenone beta. In the formulation below it is hidden in Dorinia SA E, that contains about 5% of this substance.

In most cases you will find some of the linear aldehydes or an alike material in rose notes. In this case however we use Rosalva instead, it has an aldehydic effect on the odour.

30 - Citronellol
25 - Geraniol
20 - Phenyl ethyl alcohol
 7 - EO Palmarosa
 4 - EO Geranium China
 2 - Dorina SA E
 2 - Linalool
 2 - EO clove bud
 2 - Citral 10% in DPG
 2 - Ionone alpha
 2 - Rosalva
 2 - Geranyl acetate

75% of the perfume is made out of rose alcohols, the palmarosa oil and geranium oil add to the natural (perception) aspect of the compound. Dorinia SA E is added for the Damascenone beta it contains, but it also contains rose oxide, this and other components of it add to the complexity. The remaining components all modify the fragrance a little: linalool, citral and geranyl acetate freshen it up, clove bud oil adds a spicy note, Rosalva adds an aldehyde note and ionone alpha just adds another floral aspect to the mixture.

After mixing this compound the geranium may be a bit too strong, however, this improves over time.